Wednesday, September 24, 2008

La Cultura, Revisited

In the few short weeks of being back in Guatemala, I have come to realize how new many parts of this culture still are to me. It is not that I didn’t have the full experience last year; it’s that the depth and the extent of a culture can never be fully realized after only 10 months of living in a place. The last few weekends have been full of “cultural” experiences that are both brand new and repeats of things I did last year.

La feria (the fair) for example was one of my favorite “Xela experiences” of last year. During the two weekends surrounding Latin American Independence Day (September 15), the world’s scariest, ride-at-your-own-risk, most enjoyable fair comes to Xela. The Ferris Wheel here goes faster than most of the “fast” rides at a fair in the States. It is also the one ride I refuse to ride here (I don’t actually want to put my life in danger). The second visit to la feria was even better than the first. I rode all the rides I could convince people to accompany me on (the number of riders in our group was diminished because the only other female rider is pregnant). We ate a large array and quantity of gourmet fair food; and then my friend Marcela and I beat all the boys at foosball. That’s right. We beat 6 guys in a tournament; all are friends of ours that were quite embarrassed at the outcome.

Independence Day here is quite an ordeal. People travel from all over Central America to come to Xela. In addition to the fair, there are beauty pageants, concerts in the park, parades every day (or so it seems), and a large celebration to bring in the actual Day the night before, called the grito. They close off an entire main street the night of the grito and have vendors and stages set up all along the road. There are thousands of people, and concerts the whole night long, all culminating to a speech by the mayor at midnight, officially welcoming the Independence Day. As last year, the grito was an incredibly fun, entertaining night to mingle with all people from Latin America who have all come together to celebrate this day.

For the first time (because somehow I didn’t go last year…??) since I’ve been here, I also visited the Fuentes Georginas a few weekends ago. Fuentes is one of the places that is recommended by travel books. It is a set of naturally fed hot springs located at the base of one of the volcanoes. After having an incredibly relaxing day sitting in the pools feeling hot, yet cooled by the intermittent rain showers we got, I am saddened I just now discovered this place. Locals believe the pools to have some sort of healing power. I suppose if I daily carried loads on my back that weighed at least my body weight or more, or daily bent over tending my crops growing on the hillside for hours at a time, I too would think the hot pools that relieved my sore, aching bones and joints had healing powers. And the best part—Fuentes is only a gorgeous 35 minute drive from Xela.

This past weekend, a few teacher friends and I went to a little beach town on the Guatemalan Pacific coast named Tilapita. The organizers of the trip own property on the beach, and help sponsor a turtle hatchery on the little island. The official purpose of the trip was to search for turtles nesting on the beach, to recover their eggs, and put them in the hatchery to eventually help repopulate the turtles in the area. After two nights of looking, however, we only found one turtle egg, but no turtles. Lastima. However, my personal goal was to lay on the beach (check), read a book (check), and return relaxed and ready for the upcoming week (check). So I’d call it a successful weekend trip!

So while it’s nice to be the “old teacher” who has supposedly been through it all already, everything still seems new to me; I have only begun to scratch the surface on seeing and knowing Guatemala.

Sunday, August 31, 2008

Transition to the Next

After an incredible summer working at Wilderness Trek in June and July, August has proved a month full of transition from one thing to the next. I closed out my summer at Trek in time to attend the wedding of one of my good college girlfriends. Incidentally, it was the first time everyone from our college “group” had been back in Nashville since graduating and splitting ways. It was a beautiful time of celebration; we all were thankful for at least 12 hours all together before we went back to our respective homes. Personally, I was especially thankful for a week of hanging around family and friends and relaxing prior to my transition to Guatemala to begin working again in Quetzaltenango.

I left Nashville rejuvenated after a summer of Trek, and excited to finally be heading toward a routine. As much as I was able to do and see this summer (including a family reunion, a few weddings, a summer hiking mountains, a few weeks of catching up with friends, and many other things), I was too busy to look forward to returning to my life here in Guatemala. I knew however, that I did not regret my decision to return, and was in fact excited about all the prospects a new school year in this country brings. Once closing out all of the other areas of life from the States and from the summer, nothing but joy has come from my return to, and beginning of, life in Xela.

My trip here was basically uneventful, unless you count learning that the Schnyders are pregnant in the airport in Fort Lauderdale, seeing another teacher at customs in the airport in Guate, having our bus break down 45 minutes outside of Xela, and returning to an empty house that still smelled like dog despite the absence of the dog for the entire summer!

School began two weeks ago. It seems like an entirely different year. The students, while much the same, are changed—hopefully for the better. The teachers/staff have changed also—while many old faces are missed, it’s been great fun getting to know the new faces that we see around. They are the newest part of the “family” here, and much like last year, only time will cement the relationships that we form. My job has changed, and much for the better. After all the time and effort spent last year reading textbooks, taking notes, and planning classes, I am able (finally) to relax in the afternoons. Classes are more fun and easier to plan because the ground work is already laid out from last year. And of course I have also changed. A summer in Colorado always serves to strengthen and rejuvenate me in a way that few other things can even hope to achieve.

So it is with fresh perspective that life continues here in Xela. We teach, walk around in the rain, and enjoy the culture of this beautiful place and the people we have come to love in it.

Sunday, February 10, 2008

Rubber and Running On the Bank

Last weekend, it was my privilege to get to visit one of the rubber farms owned by the Director of our school, Martin Brodbeck. We spend Saturday riding in the back of a tow wagon turned tour wagon (complete with benches for sitting) as Marty showed us all about the process of growing rubber. It was incredible to be able to see every step of the process starting with the little tree seed and finishing with watching the men "tap" the trees. First they pick, germinate, and grow seeds of the plant they use for the roots of their cloned rubber stock. Once to a certain height, they plant these seedlings in bags and "graft" a new seed to the trunk of the seedling. Grafting involves cutting the bark of the seedling and TAPING the seed inside the cut. Over time, the seed grows into the seedling's bark and root system, eventually taking over the tree. The trunk of the seedling is cut off, leaving the original roots and the new tree. This clone (with the roots of one tree and the above ground part of another tree) is planted in a field and left to grow to maturity. Once reaching maturity, the tree is tapped to collect the precious rubber. Tapping involves cutting the bark of the tree in a chute that allows the rubber to seep out (much like blood runs out of your skin when you are cut). The rubber is collected in bins that are attached the bottom of the chute on every tree. The rubber is then dried, collected, and shipped to a buyer.

My thought leaving the rubber farm was, "Who came up with this? I imagine someone practicing knife throwing against trees, and one day he hits a tree that seeps white stuff. And he says to himself, hmmm, I can melt this, purify it, and mold it to create products that fulfill numerous needs and wants of the human race." That guy is now a millionaire.

The second major event of the week makes me feel like a character in Mary Poppins or It's a Wonderful Life. Never in the States have I felt insecure in putting all of my money in the bank. In fact, some people even use online "banks" that do not even have an actual building; they only exist virtually. It does not even cross our minds that one day our money may be unavailable or that the bank will close down and you could lose everything you have saved. I know in the times of my grandparents that kind of thing happened, but never have I feared the security of that system...until last week, living here.

As told on several occasions by several friends who were here last year, several major banks went bankrupt in Xela last year and many people lost all of their money. Even at our school, several students were personally affected. With this in memory, I was sitting at our bible study last Wednesday when Tiffany (one of my roommates) received a call from a Guatemalan friend saying our bank was rumored to be closing that night at 8pm, and not opening the next morning or any day after. The time was 7:45pm. We jumped up immediately and ran out of the restaurant, heading toward downtown to the closest ATM. Most of us are first year staff and therefore don't have much Quetzales (the currency) saved in the bank, however a select few have been here many years and have been able to save a significant amount of money (considering how much we get paid). When we reach central park, the ATMs are locked, our bank has closed 15 minutes early, and Tiffany's friend has called again to say the lines outside another branch of the bank are huge, and they just locked half the people outside without giving them their money. None of these actions inspire confidence in the stability of the bank.

On the edge of panic, and somewhat driven by adrenaline, we run (spring more like it) to a less popular ATM we know of a few blocks away. Lucky for us it is open. Even more fortunate, there is cash inside and it is working. Much to our chagrin, however, there is apparently a limit on our accounts as to the number of Q that can be withdrawn in one day's time. Q2000, is all we can take out. All of us take the most we can and quickly run the machine out of cash. All the other ATMs are out of order or empty. My only thought is, what if we all get stuck with no money in Guatemala? The school is completely run through that bank, and many of our adult teachers who live in Xela conduct all their finances through the bank as well. Most of the stability that we know would be erased by the crashing of our bank. What would happen to us?

Sadly, a better question that came to mind later is, what happens to the Guatemalans who are completely vested in that bank? They have no friends and family in the States to support them, much less bank accounts in the States that are secure and stable that they could draw support from. As we all arrived back at the house and had a good laugh at ourselves for panicking and running around the town (some in pajamas, some in heels, some with slippers on) taking our money out, my heart went out to those who do not enjoy the security that I do. I knew several people who waited outside in the lines outside the bank to withdraw their entire family's savings from the bank. That is their entire livelihood, without it, they are stuck with nothing.

In the end, we learned that the bank is actually very stable (or so their representatives say) and that the police are pursuing the people starting these rumors. However, my perspective on banking has changed as a result of this. I now understand why many of the indigenous in this country do not use banks. They keep all the money they own in cash hidden either under their mattresses or in their bras. I know what it's like to run on the bank, because that's essentially what we tried to do.

God also used this instance to teach my friends and I the meaning of "storing your treasures in heaven." I may have all my money in a bank that goes down, but that's not where my treasure lies in the first place. I want to store my treasures in heaven where nothing can soil or take them away. Now I understand this in a more personal way than ever before. And it's a choice that I can consciously make, to store my treasures in heaven and not here on earth, be it in a bank, a mattress, or hidden on my person.

Sunday, February 3, 2008

Paper Cutters are Dangerous Machines

January has flown by. I arrived back in Guatemala with smiles and a sense of homecoming after spending a wonderful Christmas vacation with friends and family in the States. Second semester of school started back without problems and has passed more quickly than I could have imagined, especially considering I haven't done anything extraordinary on the weekends or during the week. This weekend (from Friday to today) however, has provided many interesting stories. And it is actually those events that have prompted me to finally write a new post on my blog.

Friday, about 12:30pm, there I was in the new media center of our school, supervising some research by my Chemistry class for a project I had just assigned them, when I remembered I hadn't yet finished cutting out some game pieces for an activity in my last class of the day. My chemistry class is fairly well behaved and stay on task well, so I left them to their independent research and went to cut some paper for my game. Well, if you haven't already put together the last sentence and this post's title, I had some technical difficulties with the paper cutter. In order to save you gruesome details, I'll just leave it at this: during my last swipe with the blade, I accidentally put a finger in the wrong place and effectively "circumcised my thumb" (as one student later put it). Fortunately, many other teachers were in the staff lounge, eating lunch and were able to assist me in cleaning and bandaging my wound, saving the piece of thumb (skin and fingernail) I cut off, and showing the entire rest of the school my detached piece of thumb in a plastic bag.

Well, as interesting as that must have been for all the elementary and high school classes (to see my piece of thumb in a plastic sandwich bag, leaving the rest to imagination), it must have been even better to see the actual person who is so good at cutting with the paper cutter. I know this because soon after the incident I went outside to serve my lunch duty, and at once the first and second grade teachers told their students, "there she is, Ms. Johnson, the science teacher." I was swarmed(they literally RAN over to me) by 20 little 1st and 2nd graders who wanted to see for themselves. Being the responsible teacher that I am, I took the opportunity to remind our impressionable young students the importance of safety when handling sharp objects:

me--"And what can we learn from this?"
young girl (yelling)--"Don't run with scissors in your hand, and carry them like this!"
me--"Exactly, now go back to class, show and tell is over."

When finished healing, I have a feeling my poor thumb will never again have the same shape as the other hand's thumb. At least the defective thumb is on the same hand that already has a deformed finger!

Wednesday, December 19, 2007

End, Semester 1

Today is the last day of finals for this semester. Tomorrow night I will be in Nashville!

The past two days have been crazy busy, full of last minute Christmas present shopping, packing (last night starting at 8pm), and grading finals in order to turn in grades before I leave school this morning. Looking back I cannot believe that one semester is already over! Time has flown by, and I find myself already happy that this is not the end. I still have at least one more semester of living in Guatemala and from what I hear it goes by even faster than the fall semester.

Regardless of what happens next semester or even next year (if I decide to return), I'm looking forward to a wonderful Christmas break with family and friends in the States. See everyone soon!

Sunday, December 2, 2007

Dia de Accion de Gracias

Hard to believe, but one week ago, I was in El Salvador on the beach, tanning, sleeping, and reading non-textbooks. It was incredibly fun! Seven friends and I traveled to El Salvador for our five day weekend to spend Thanksgiving on the beach. We ended up staying at a small little beach/surf resort named something 'horizonte'. It was an incredible vacation! We literally relaxed, swam in the ocean, boogie boarded (my personal favorite), layed-out, played cards, and ate good food for the entire weekend. We also got to see a little bit of another country. FYI, in El Salvador, they chop the 's'es off their words so it's a harder to understand Spanish (or as my spanish teacher would say, a "less pure" spanish) than here in Guatemala.

We also visited the Capital of El Salvador, San Salvador for a day. They have the nicest and biggest mall in Central America there. We walked in and it was like culture shock. I didn't even end up buying anything because I just wandered around in awe, looking at all the stores gathered in just one place, and being bumped to and fro by the huge throng of people that were shopping at the mall on a Saturday evening. It was crazy! I expect that going back to the States for Christmas will be at least that bad in terms of culture shock with materialism, big crowds, white people, people who speak english with a good accent, no trash in the streets, no stray dogs, throwing trash in trash cans, being able to drink the sink water, christmas decorations that aren't all guady, etc. (I think you get the picture).

Anyways, I came back from Thanksgiving vacation in El Salvador tan, relaxed, refreshed, and ready to finish out the last three and a half weeks before Christmas. Now that one week is down, all we have left is one week of regular classes (maybe one and a half for some of my classes) followed by a week of review for final exams, followed by three days of final exams and then HOME! I am beginning to get very excited about getting to see friends and family over the holidays and to go to Walmart and get everything I need all in one place. Yes, I support the convenience of Walmart and Target.

Sunday, November 18, 2007

Time Flying Away

Time is flying! In planning my classes for the next week or two, I realized how quickly this semester has gone. It feels as if I simply blinked back in August and have now opened my eyes to find that 3 months have passed. Although we are in Guatemala, our school follows American system, curriculum, and even some holidays. Tomorrow begins a two and a half day long school week. Wednesday, after a half day of classes, we will have a Thanksgiving meal provided by mothers at the school and then I am headed to El Salvador for our Thanksgiving holiday with some teacher friends. We are headed toward warm weather and beaches! I cannot wait! After Thanksgiving vacation we only have three weeks of classes, three days of exams, and then I'm coming home for Christmas. See what I mean about time flying?

Two weeks ago I assigned one of my classes their big project for the quarter--a flour baby project where they each will become single parents of a homemade four baby for two weeks. It actually goes along with the chapter we're studying right now on controlling population growth. Perhaps being single parents will act as a sort of contraceptive in their lives, at least in high school. It also gives me an opportunity to introduce a little bit of sex ed into the curriculum since these kids get no kind of sex ed in any class at our school. In explaining the flour baby project, I made the teacher quote board again saying, "we're making babies in class tomorrow." Of course, for fourteen years olds who are already obsessed with sex, changing bodies, changing hormones, and trying to be cool high schoolers now, that was met with hysterical laughter. It's been quite funny watching my 13 ninth graders tote their babies around every day at school. Some will make incredible parents when the time comes. For example, one of the guys carries his baby around on his shoulders all day long, holding his hands and bouncing him up and down in a loving manner. This same kid also brought a stroller, crib, and baby carrier to school the first day of the project! Many other students still need time to grow into good parents; for example, the fourth grade class was horrified when one of the flour babies was put on the roof of the school right outside their window. Needless to say, stunts such as that are met with decreased grades for the project.

During this two week time of the project, I'm am amazed almost daily at the opportunities we've had to discuss parenting, hormones, changes, contraceptives, sex, etc. in this class. Kids have questions, and it's been rewarding to provide a safe environment for objective, non perverse questions and answers to questions every teen wants to know but doesn't know who or how to ask without being ridiculed. Also, one of my students will make the teacher's student quote board on Monday for a comment made on Friday in reference to girls on their periods swimming in pools. Essentially he asked if when girls on their period go swimming get in the pool, and then all of a sudden around them (pssshhhh sound effect) "the red sea?" It's hard not to laugh at that!

Last night Xela had a town celebration for the lighting of the "arbol de gallo" or Gallo Tree. It is a HUGE christmas tree that is completely decked out in christmas lights and little Gallos (roosters). Now, understand that Gallo is a beer company that I'm convinced owns this country...not many would argue that point. So picture the hugest tree you've ever seen all alight with christmas lights, roosters, light up words "gallo", and on top, not a angel or a bow, but a large rotating light up GALLO sign. Of course, in front of the Gallo tree is a light up nativity scene. Once again, the irony is hilarious. Pictures will be coming of this great event. I arrived late, when the festivities were ending--the live music was almost over, the tree was already lit, and most of the people were leaving. But most incredible was that they ran out of Gallo at the lighting of the Gallo Christmas Tree--how does that even happen? Asi es la vida en Guatemala.


Maybe more has happened in the last two weeks, if I remember more, I will post more. But if not, I'm sure we'll have stories to share after El Salvador!